Skip to content
ROLVANE
Language: ENEnglish
Request a quote
Rolvane bearing sourcing deskISO 15 boundary dimensions · ISO 492 tolerance classes · ISO 281 rating lifeA FULVERA sourcing brand
  1. Home
  2. Engineering notes
  3. Lubrication and maintenance

How to remove a bearing: pullers, heat and care

Removal is where shafts and housings get damaged, and where the old bearing can still tell you why it failed. This note covers the tools, the order of work and the safety points. Fitting is covered in how to install a bearing.

How to remove a bearing: pullers, heat and care - Lubrication and maintenance

Before you pull: plan and record

Removal looks simple, but it is the step most likely to damage a shaft, a housing or the bearing you want to inspect. Spend a few minutes on preparation. Make sure the machine is isolated, locked out and cannot be started. Take photographs or notes of how the bearing sits: which side the seal faces, how the locking device is arranged, and the shaft and housing markings. If you plan to inspect the bearing for the cause of failure, avoid cleaning it until you have looked at it and kept the grease.

Decide whether the bearing will be reused. In most industrial cases a bearing that has been pulled with force through its rolling elements should not go back into service. If the bearing is to be reused, the removal has to be gentle, which means pulling on the tight ring only, and the rule from installation applies in reverse: never load the rolling elements.

Choose the tool for the fit

SituationTypical toolNotes
Small to medium bearing on a shaft, accessible inner ringTwo- or three-jaw mechanical pullerHook the inner ring; centre the screw on the shaft end
Inner ring not accessiblePuller with a thin-jaw, or a splitter plate behind the ringA splitter lets you grip behind the bearing
Blind hole housingInternal extractor or slide hammer setGrips the back of the outer ring
Larger bearings with tight fitHydraulic puller or pressGives high force with controlled pressure
Bearing on adapter or withdrawal sleeveLock nut loosened, hydraulic nut or sleeve pullerRelease the taper before pulling
Very tight or long-seated inner ringInduction heater with pullerHeat the ring quickly, then pull while it is expanded
Oil-injection shaftsHydraulic oil pumped between surfacesUses ducts and grooves built into the seat

Step-by-step with a mechanical puller

  1. Remove covers, nuts, circlips, locking washers and set screws. Check that nothing else holds the ring.
  2. Clean the shaft end and apply a little penetrating oil around the ring edge if rust is present. Give it time to work.
  3. Place the puller jaws on the inner ring, with the screw centred in the shaft centre hole if available. Keep the jaws level and square.
  4. Tighten steadily by hand or with a wrench; do not use an impact driver on the screw of a mechanical puller.
  5. If the bearing resists, stop and apply heat or more oil. Prolonged brute force bends jaws and can break them.
  6. Once the ring moves, guide it straight off the seat so that it does not tilt and score the shaft.

Using heat for stubborn fits

Heating the inner ring expands it faster than the shaft, so it loosens. Use an induction heater with the correct coil or a controlled heating tool for the size; avoid open flames. As in mounting, keep the temperature below the limit given by the bearing supplier, and expect to stop as soon as the ring moves. Never heat a sealed or greased bearing beyond its grease and seal limit; grease can ignite or escape. Wear heat-resistant gloves and keep flammable materials out of the area.

When the outer ring is stuck in a housing, heat the housing and not the ring, because you want the housing bore to grow. Aluminium housings expand more than steel and loosen quickly, but they can also be damaged by uneven heat.

Housed units and adapter sleeves

Pillow block and flange units are removed in two stages: first the housing from its frame, then the bearing from the shaft. Loosen the set screws or the eccentric collar fully before pulling; a collar that is only partly released can cut a groove in the shaft as the unit slides. For bearings on adapter sleeves, back the lock nut off a few turns, then tap the sleeve loose with a drift on the nut face or use a hydraulic nut if provided. Once the sleeve is free, the bearing slides off by hand. Do not strike the bearing itself.

When a unit is rusted onto a shaft in a damp environment, soak the joint with penetrating oil for some hours, and plan to replace the shaft sleeve or the shaft section if scoring is deep. A cleaner shaft makes the next fit faster and lasts longer.

Protect the shaft and housing

  • Do not hammer on the shaft end; use a soft metal or brass drift if you must tap, and hit the tool, not the shaft.
  • Do not use a chisel or cutting torch to split the ring unless the bearing is scrap and the shaft is protected. Cutting rings with a torch overheats the shaft.
  • Use a protective cap or a spacer on the shaft centre hole to stop the puller screw from scoring it.
  • Remove burrs with a fine file or stone after the bearing is off, then check seat dimensions with a micrometre.
  • If the shaft seat is worn or fretted, repair or replace it; a new bearing on a worn seat will creep and fail.

Safety

Pullers store energy. If a jaw slips, the tool can fly. Keep your body out of the line of the screw, wear safety glasses and gloves, and use a guard around hydraulic pullers when practical. Support heavy shafts and bearings with slings before pulling, so that the ring does not drop on release. Hot components stay hot for a long time; mark them clearly. Follow the plant lockout procedure and the puller manufacturer instructions.

Read the old bearing

The removed bearing tells a story. Look at the raceways for spalling, discolouration from heat, scratches from dirt, rust from water, or fluting from electrical current. Check the cage for breaks and the seals for wear. Keep the grease sample. Patterns of damage point to causes such as misalignment, contamination, overload or wrong lubrication; see bearing failure causes for a reading guide. Photograph the bearing before cleaning, record the hours in service, and note the lubrication history. This is the evidence that stops the same failure from repeating.

Replacement and sourcing notes

When you remove a bearing, note the full designation, including clearance, seal and tolerance suffixes, before ordering a replacement; the designation guide explains how to read them. Order the locking parts and washers with the bearing if they were damaged by removal. Send the designation and application details through the quote form, and the desk will confirm availability, the typical reference MOQ and lead time in writing for each program.

Questions buyers ask

Which part of the bearing should the puller grip?

Grip the ring that has the tight fit, usually the inner ring on a shaft. Pulling on the outer ring sends force through the rolling elements and damages the raceways, so the bearing should not be reused.

Can I reuse a bearing after removing it?

Sometimes, if it was pulled gently by the tight ring, runs smoothly, shows no damage and is still correct for the application. Bearings removed with force through the rolling elements, or ones with wear, should be replaced.

How do I remove a seized bearing from a shaft?

Apply penetrating oil, use a puller or press that grips the inner ring, and heat the ring quickly with an induction heater if needed. Avoid torches and heavy hammering, which damage the shaft.

Why is my bearing stuck in the housing?

Fretting, corrosion or a tight fit can lock the outer ring. Heat the housing so the bore expands, and use an internal extractor or slide hammer that grips the back of the ring.

Send the designations or d x D x B sizes you need, the quantity per item and your market. The desk replies in writing with matched options, inspection points and the reference MOQ.

Request a quote